Learning with the Luo: Ugandan Treat~~photos at bottom

I recently got to spend my 'birthday weekend' in Kampala, Uganda. What a fabulous treat that was: catching up with my long-time friend, Edward; and attending a Gukwa (Dowery) Ceremony with Edward's family.

It took me 12+ hours and 5 different kinds of vehicles to get from my home to Edward's: piki piki (motorcycle taxi), ferry, matatu (van), comfortable coach bus, and finally, a car. While I'd been able to meet Edward's 4 grown children last year when I was in Kampala, I hadn't seen Edward for 10 years, and I'd never meet Vasta, his wife. So, (re-)connecting with them was so very special!
As many of you know, my interest in Africa began way back in 1963; so in January 1974 when Edward arrived at the windy, frozen Trinity Seminary campus to study, I enjoyed befriending this always-cold, charming student from a country of 'eternal spring' (his description of Uganda to me). I knew of Idi Amin's terrorizing rule of Uganda, and yet all Edward said about Amin was that he was concerned about his family, because there would be long gaps between hearing any news from them.
But now, 38 years later, in the comfort of his home, I was able to get the details... to hear the news that he had been unable to utter back then! I learned that he had been smuggled out of Uganda in 1973 because he was one of the dissidents on Amin's 'hit list'. 'Earning' this designation started while he was a college student in Kampala: representing his university student group, with a few students from other Kampala universities, they courageously met with Amin to respectfully protest his decision to evict Ugandans of Indian descent. Then, some years later, Edward had been forced to watch one of Amin's firing squads execute suspected rebels, one of whom was Edward's student at the time. This prompted Edward, a young deacon, to preach and sing songs of protest. When his bishop learned that Edward's life was in danger, he arranged for Edward to flee, and to study in the US. Once in the US, Edward needed to change his name, apply for refugee status, and not return home for 8 years. While using this time of exile, and getting his Masters and PhD degrees in the Chicago area I had no knowledge of the extent of his stress; for his own safety, Edward could not blow the cover that had been created. One small way I'm now able to appreciate what he went through at that time is that I can't imagine suddenly going 8 years with seeing my dear family and friends, and without eating any of the familiar and favorite foods from home!!!

We spent much of one day at the Gukwa (Dowry, but read "bride-price") Ceremony of close family friends: Edward's daughter Tsimiine was an attendant for Grace, the bride. Both Edward's family and Grace's family are from tribes whose homes are in southwestern Uganda. All the African guests wore traditional dress, sewn in gorgeous fabrics!! By the end of the day I'd learned to distinguish the Bafumbira (Grace's tribe, near the Rwandan border) style from the style worn by the Bakiga women (Edward's tribe). After a feast of African foods, the modernized version of the Gukwa formalities began... with the 2 families sitting opposite each other across a wide lawn. Other guests were on the 2 remaining sides. Speeches in the local tongues, and the presentations and acceptances of gifts were interspersed with very beautiful, colorful Bafumbira dancing, music and singing!! It was really fantastic!!! Obushera (a fermented drink made from sorghum) was served in calabashes, then the couple cut and served the western-style wedding cake! What an incredible privilege it was for me to be present at this ceremony!!